Quinault Valley

by Larry Smith

I was introduced to many of the fundamentals of bushwhacking at an early age. This area is certified as one of the better schools in which to learn them. Gramps took delight in the pure and basic hell bequeathed by our tramps down Fletcher Canyon, especially during August heat waves! He would actually get this distant look and a somewhat sloppy grin on his face when describing the dense thickets of willows and Devils Clubs. I was starting to realize that I was related to a man who might be a trifling bit on the ‘northeast side’ of eccentric...

The Colonel Bob area is truly a mini-massif. The cluster of peaks provides sheer topographic relief from the low-lying valleys. The only connector with the rest of the Olympics is the narrow ridge at the head of Howe Creek. From Mount Hoquiam (Hike #44) the area appears as a rolling ‘ocean’ of basalt rising out of the virgin forests.

Drive the South Shore Road, about eight miles past the town of Quinault. The very noble and classic shape of Wooded Peak is a beautiful backdrop to the Olson homestead about four miles up the valley. The old house has been replaced by a more modern rambler, but the cleared land has changed very little. These settlers made many forays into the high country in the early 1900’s. A number of prominent features were named by them, including Lake Connie (Hike #44) and Lake Ben (Hike #10). Park at the Ewell’s Creek Trail · and immediately start long switchbacks up the hillside. The trees are exceptionally large for such a steep hillside. The number of board feet per acre must be enormous. I would assume that the rainfall and ocean fog must be a factor! This is an exceptionally beautiful forest all the way to the ridgetop junction with the Pete’s Creek Trail · coming up from the Humptulips valley. Follow this trail left (north) to the gap overlooking Fletcher Canyon. Look down into this hellhole and you will start to agree with my assessment of Gramps’ heinous addiction to brush-lunging... However, the thickets really only last for about two miles, then thin out to more beautiful forest and a truly lovely canyon farther downstream.

Drop into the beautiful subalpine meadows of Moonshine Flats below the summit towers of Colonel Bob. It is a pleasant surprise to be among heather and Partridgefoot and Shooting Stars at this relatively low elevation! The bubbling rivulets spin along, making little gurgling noises. The wind makes a sighing tone as it wafts through the stunted trees. A feeling of mystery is in the air. Scramble to the penstemon-covered summit and soak up the wonderful view of the Quinault Valley. The vertical relief is stunning. Mike’s Spike shows its rapier tower along the ridge toward Baldy. Gibson Peak and Moonlight Dome (Hike #41) display their basalt summits in the sunset. The omnipresent Mount Olympus penetrates the ozone beyond Higley Peak. Lake Quinault shows its eastern half as a blue mirror in the waning light. As the sun sinks, the ocean reflects back to your eyes as a brilliant slash on the horizon. If you are an eccentric kind of person with a maniacal grin, follow Fletcher Creek down to the Quinault. You can pick up the Fletcher Creek Trail · about three miles downstream on the right side of the heavenly lower valley.

About the Author

Larry Smith (lovebuzz@oz.net) grew up hiking in the Olympic Mountains with his grandfather. He has carried on with the tradition for nearly 50 years. The hiking