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Panther Gorge
The trail description includes about a 9 mile hike to access Panther Gorge, a 6.5 mile dayhike, and the 9 mile exit hike. The journey begins at the Elk Lake trailhead. The trail immediately drops down into a lowland area and meanders through patches of blowdown. The trail has been cut, cleared and re-routed around the jumble of fallen trees. It crosses The Branch (outlet from Elk Lake) on s suspension bridge, follows several old tote roads. While traversing the thick hardwood forests, the trail crosses Nellie Brook and Guideboard Brook while meandering through flat land and moderate areas of blowdown. Several private trails branch off to the east toward Elk Lake. At a junction of several tote roads, the trail bears left and crosses Guideboard Brook once again. From here the trail begins to climb, steeply at times to the pass through the Boreas-Colvin Range. You will cross the pass through a unique ravine characterized by dark weathered anorthosite cliffs (10-20 ft high) to your right and gently sloping land to your left. At the height of the pass, walk through the Druid’s Amphitheater before descending further down the rock strewn ravine. The trail skirts the southern flanks of the Colvin Range near the headwaters of tributaries to Casey Brook. Wandering up and down, it crosses the final tributary and makes the final climb to a secondary rocky pass. The trail descends moderately reaching a trail junction: the trail to the right leads to Pinnacle Ridge, Blake Peak, and Mt Colvin. The Elk Lake-Marcy trail bears left and meanders through growing patches of blowdown and flat land. Follow the narrow manmade cleft through the blowdown to a major trail junction. The trail drops slightly before crossing Stillwater Inlet over a two-log bridge. From here the trail crosses the dense cedar forest of Marcy Swamp. Through the swamp, the trail follows a long series of low split log bridges that pop up like floorboards in a cartoon hitting the comic character in the head. Coming out of the northwest side of the swamp, the trail enters a larger area of blowdown before beginning the persistent ascent to Panther Gorge. The trail climbs up the gullet of Panther Gorge, bordered by Bartlett Ridge to the east and Little Nippletop and Mt Skylight to the west. Notice the vegetation change as you climb in elevation. The areas of blowdown become thick as you blindly wander up the narrow manmade passages like a carthorse with blinders. In the distance you softly hear the rumble of Marcy Brook as you wander to and fro near its eastern bank. Finally the pitch flattens and after crossing a major tributary to Marcy Brook, Panther Gorge Lean-to appears as if out of nowhere. Spend the night here. For the remainder of the day explore the gorge, searching for the distant headwaters of Marcy Brook and the mysterious treasures of the high peaks region that are hidden in the dense moss carpeted forests. With persistence follow Marcy Brook upstream, sometimes pouncing on boulders in the streambed and other times carefully working your way through the wet depths of mirkwood, and discover the headwall where the forces of the mountains are channeled through the area. Rise early the next morning to venture forth on an adventurous dayhike up Bartlett Ridge, over Haystack, up Mt Marcy, down to Lake Tear of the Clouds, and return to Panther Gorge. The hike begins with a steep climb up Bartlett Ridge through a moss-covered terrarium. Reaching the top of the ridge, the pitch lessens and follows split log bridges through a boggy area. At the trail junction bear left and begin the steep ascent up the south side of Haystack. Climbing through bouldery pitches, the trail climbs several very steep bedrock faces before reaching treeline. From here gaze upward at the rocky upper reaches of Haystack. Marvel at the glorious landscape as you climb over several rocky pitches and bedrock benches toward the summit. Reaching the summit, experience the roar of the Panther if conditions are right and discover the meaning of the gorge. Traverse the rocky summit, peering into the depths of Panther Gorge to the west and the steep broad chasm of Haystack Brook to the east. Descend the rocky summit and find the narrow clefts that provide passage up Little Haystack. From here, descend steeply, skirt the headwall of Panther Gorge, and reach the junction of the Range Trail and Phelps Trail. Head left and begin a moderately steep climb up Mt Marcy. Continue the climb the trail reaches a clear area where you get a fantastic view of the summit. Meander east on bedrock outcrops and gaze out over to Mt Haystack and focus on the raw power and solitude you experienced at that magnificent peak. Rejuvenated, join the masses and make the final push to the bald, but somewhat disappointing summit. From here follow the Elk Lake – Marcy Trail south over oddly sloped bedrock. Although less traveled, seek seclusion at Schofield Cobble before descending further to the Four Corners. At four corners bear right and follow the flat path to Lake Tear of the Clouds (the birthplace of the Hudson River). Return to Four Corners and follow the steep trail descent to Panther Gorge. Spend the night again at the lean-to and listen to the panther roar through the night. Read the journal entries for June 9, 2000 and September 15 2000. It’s one example of life’s mysteries and coincidences. The following morning pack out, paying special attention to the expanse of blowdown visible from this vantage point. Imagine climbing through the tangled trees. Envision fallen trees for as far as the eye can see. Now close your eyes and watch your self clamber through the entanglement without the aide of a cut trail, no sign of any trail, with only the pack on your back, a compass and map for a 6 mile stretch of wilderness. As you descend further into the lowlands, watch as the undergrowth silently celebrates your passing with waves of foliation and bids you a fond farewell until the next time. Panther Gorge is a dreamscape; a vibrant moss coated wilderness, as close to an “eastern temperate rainforest” as it gets. It’s well worth the longer hike in to experience the solitude in the very heart of this area. Dayhikes must include the journey up Mt Haystack. It’s truly one of the best hikes in this central area of the High Peaks. If all goes well, you’ll leave the area enriched, full of energy, having experienced the roar of the Panther.
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